16 Comments

This is a great article. Sort of a Surfing and the Art of Entrepreneurial Maintenance. It got me thinking that there are hundreds of lessons from surfing that could be applied to entrepreneurship and life. Like: party waves are like having too many business partners - messed up!. And, finding balance on a board is like finding balance in work & life: challenging at first, better with practice. Or, when you get a 2 wave hold down and your board tombstones, your friends can't help you. As in business, you have to calm yourself, know which way is up and down, resurface, and get ready for the next beating. So much surfing wisdom here!

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I’ve been a vacation surfer for over 10 years and recently started to surf again (more frequently than every 6-12 months when I’m on vacation) when I moved to Southern California a year ago. It has been so humbling to be in the white wash with a bunch of school age children and struggling to paddle out at times. Like you said — the ocean can care less who you are. I’ve been unlearning the grind and hustle mentality, the checklists of how-to, and feeling a certain way “do I really fit in as a ‘surfer’?” It has been practice, being present, and constantly listening & learning about the current moment. It’s what I learned in yoga and meditation — both practices that has helped me to be more in-tuned with my body. Now, I’m learning to be more connected with my body and nature. I am beyond proud I’ve continued to challenge myself because I feel surfing has truly changed the way I work and process difficult situations.

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I am 64. I just did an 18 mile hike in the highest (11.5k) mountain in socal. On the way down I met a 24 year old guy who was climbing his first mountain ever. I gave him advice on mountaineering. He gave me advice on surfing, the one outdoor activities I've never done. I am set to take my first lesson. Always keep growing and trying.

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Right on man!

I surfed hard from 14-19 and it continues to inform my life + perspective on many levels; even though I no longer get out in the water.

Favorite related quote...

"Life is a wave and your attitude is your surfboard". -Drew Kampion

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This was great Guy. It also reminds me of the chapter of your book about Big C. I have shared your email with many friends.

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I know that you think that golf is a MAGA sport, but if you replace surfing for golfing, it is still a perfect post and holds true.

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LOL. I do. Though I can some parallels other than owning your own course. :-)

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I had no idea you started surfing after 60. The way you have been talking about it I figured you have been a lifelong guy in the waves. I am from N.J. and will never surf but I love shooting surfers. (ie: camera) It is a 3D meditation and yogic communion with the universe. Your late entry into surfing is an inspiring thing to know. In fact, remarkable. 🙃 ~TEU

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Maybe I just talk a good game! :-) You should try surfing. It may help your photography to try to do what’s happening in the water. Just don’t wait until you’re 60!

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"At that point, you need to forget about making the right decision and make your decision right." - advice for surfing and pretty much everything.

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Zen and the Art of Surfboard Maintenance ;-)

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Nice...

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Guy - I remember you when you were getting started in surfing. We skated together a couple of times when I would come out to CA. Your dedication to trying new things like surfing give me a lot of thoughts and encouragement. Thank you. At the time, you offered to take me surfing sometime as it was something I have on my bucket list but have been unsuccessful at trying even though I have snowboarded for 30+ years. I am coming up on my 59th birthday so I think you should be able to show me a lot. I guess I need to make a visit to Cali and try surfing with you.

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Hurry up. Time’s a wasting! :-)

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I am happy to come visit you in Oahu to learn too! My mom lived in Haulla (Think Laie) for 10 years.

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